Anna Wintour and the Renaissance of American Vogue in the 90s

With the release of the magnificent Hulu’s limited series, In Vogue: the 90s, Anna Wintour’s name is in the headlines. Few names in the fashion industry evoke the same level of reverence and intrigue as hers. Her tenure at Vogue has become legendary, shaping not only the magazine but also the broader landscape of fashion journalism. However, it was during the 1990s that her influence truly ignited a renaissance at American Vogue, solidifying her position as a transformative editor-in-chief and leaving an indelible mark on fashion and culture. This decade saw Vogue emerge as a cultural and style authority, and Anna Wintour was the visionary at its helm.

When she assumed the role of editor-in-chief at Vogue in 1988, she was already known for her sharp editorial instincts, honed during her stints at British Vogue and House & Garden. Her arrival at American Vogue signalled a significant shift in the magazine’s tone and direction. Prior to Wintour’s reign, Vogue had a more traditional, elitist approach, catering primarily to an upper-class audience. Wintour’s vision was different. She sought to democratise fashion, making it more accessible while simultaneously elevating its artistry.

By the 1990s, her presence at the magazine had come into full force. Vogue shed its previous conservatism in favour of a fresher, more dynamic aesthetic. Wintour’s signature look—sharp bob, oversized sunglasses—became a symbol of this new energy, and her bold approach to editorial content soon reflected this ethos.

Her revolution was most evident in Vogue’s editorial direction. She famously

broke tradition with her first cover, featuring model Michaela Bercu in a couture Christian Lacroix jacket paired with faded Guess jeans. It was a statement of intent: fashion under Anna Wintour would no longer be confined to rigid conventions. High fashion would meet the street, blending haute couture with everyday wear in a way that resonated with a broader audience.

Throughout the 90s, this ethos would take centre stage, as Vogue covers began to showcase a more diverse range of models and celebrities. Wintour pioneered the concept of featuring actors, musicians, and public figures on the cover, understanding the rising influence of celebrity culture. These choices blurred the lines between fashion and entertainment, reflecting the evolving nature of fame. Icons such as Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Kate Moss graced the covers of Vogue, signalling the rise of the supermodel and the merging of Hollywood glamour with the world of high fashion.

The editorials themselves became more adventurous. Under Wintour’s leadership, fashion spreads were no longer just about clothes; they were narratives. Collaborating with visionary photographers such as Steven Meisel and Mario Testino, she helped create editorial stories that transported readers to exotic locales, from African savannahs to the streets of Paris, encapsulating the aspirational lifestyle that Vogue was known for. The magazine became a place where fashion met art, culture, and storytelling.

The 1990s also marked the height of the supermodel phenomenon, and Vogue was at the forefront of this cultural shift. Under Wintour’s watchful eye, models like Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, and Cindy Crawford became household names, transcending the world of fashion to become bona fide celebrities. The supermodels of the 90s were not just faces in a magazine—they were powerful personalities who embodied the zeitgeist of the era.

She understood the commercial and cultural power these women held, and she embraced their star status. These supermodels became the faces of Vogue, gracing countless covers and editorials. More than just mannequins, they represented the modern woman—bold, confident, and influential. This era was also a time when Vogue began pushing for more inclusivity in its pages, showcasing models from different ethnic backgrounds, although it is important to note that this inclusivity was far from perfect and would evolve more significantly in later decades.

Anna Wintour was never content with just covering the latest fashion trends. She infused Vogue with a sense of cultural and political awareness. In the 90s, the magazine began to explore topics beyond fashion, incorporating articles on women’s health, politics, and social issues. Wintour’s Vogue was not just about what to wear—it was about what it meant to be a modern, sophisticated woman in the rapidly changing world of the late 20th century.

One of her most notable moves was Vogue’s increased involvement in American politics. Wintour openly supported Democratic candidates and used the magazine as a platform to elevate issues of importance to her readership. The blending of fashion and politics was revolutionary at the time and reflected Wintour’s belief that the Vogue woman was not only stylish but also informed and engaged with the world around her.

By the late 90s, Vogue’s September issue had become the ultimate showcase of the magazine’s power and influence. The September issue, traditionally the most important of the year as it marked the beginning of the fashion calendar, grew under Wintour’s guidance to become a cultural event in itself. Packed with hundreds of pages of advertisements, features, and editorials, the September issue was a fashion bible, influencing trends and setting the tone for the year ahead. Wintour’s careful curation of these issues made them a must-read for anyone with even a passing interest in fashion.

The legendary status of the September issue was cemented in 2009 with the release of The September Issue, a documentary that offered an inside look at the making of the magazine’s most important edition. Though the film came out long after the 90s had ended, it underscored the pivotal role Wintour played during this golden era of Vogue.

Her  role in the renaissance of the Met Gala parallels her impact on Vogue. Just as she revolutionised the magazine, turning it into a cultural force, she transformed the Met Gala into an international event that represents the very best of fashion, art, and culture. Her ability to blend these worlds together, while remaining fiercely dedicated to creativity and innovation, ensures that the Met Gala remains one of the most iconic events of the 21st century.

The Met Gala, often referred to as “fashion’s biggest night,” has become a global cultural event, synonymous with glamour, creativity, and high fashion. While the gala had been around since 1948, it was during Anna Wintour’s tenure at Vogue in the 90s that the event transformed into the world-renowned spectacle it is today. Her influence played a significant role in transforming the Met Gala into an international celebration of fashion, art, and celebrity culture, blending the worlds of high society and pop culture in a way that had never been done before.

By the time the 90s drew to a close, Anna Wintour had not only revitalised American Vogue but had fundamentally transformed the fashion magazine landscape. Her editorial choices, her embrace of celebrity culture, and her instinctive understanding of the power of imagery had cemented her as the ultimate tastemaker. Under her stewardship, Vogue was no longer just a reflection of fashion—it had become a driving force that shaped it. The 1990s were a decade of transformation for Vogue, but more importantly, they were a time when Anna Wintour’s influence became undeniable. Her impact on fashion, media, and popular culture has endured well beyond the pages of the magazine, making her one of the most influential figures in the history of modern fashion. Her work in the 90s wasn’t just about revitalising a magazine—it was about defining an era.

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