Culler de Pau: A Sensory Journey Through Nature and Galician Flavors

Javi Olleros, head of the two-Michelin-starred restaurant Culler de Pau, has become a reference in Galician and sustainable cuisine, offering a culinary experience that goes beyond mere dining to become a sensory and emotional journey. Located in a small village on the shores of the Arosa estuary, Culler de Pau is much more than a restaurant: it is a refuge where local flavors blend with the creativity of its chef in an atmosphere that invites calm and full enjoyment.

Javi Olleros, who believes that creams are unnecessary to preserve youth and that local produce like grelos (turnip tops) is enough, has transformed Culler de Pau into a tribute to Galicia’s nature. The restaurant, celebrating its 15th anniversary, has become a symbol of proximity-based gastronomy, where every ingredient has a story and every dish a deep connection to its surroundings.

The restaurant is set in a privileged location, next to an estuary where fresh and salt waters converge, creating a natural pantry from which Olleros gathers ingredients like samphire or sea asparagus. This foraging ritual, which he performs with the same enthusiasm as at the beginning, is an almost meditative act that allows him to disconnect from the fast pace of modern life. “Nature knows how to calm me,” says the chef, who finds in these moments a source of inspiration and balance.

The story of Culler de Pau is also one of effort and dedication. Javi Olleros and his wife, Amaranta Rodríguez, began with a modest dining room and a freezer borrowed from Javi’s parents. Over the years, with the arrival of Michelin stars and international recognition, the restaurant has grown but remains true to its roots. Javi, passionate and sensitive, remains at the helm of the kitchen, while Amaranta manages the day-to-day operations with the same energy and precision as from the beginning.

Olleros, the son of Galician emigrants in Switzerland, grew up surrounded by the culinary culture his parents passed on, especially his father, who was also a chef. From a young age, Javi understood that cooking was not just about techniques and flavors, but about values like discipline and responsibility. These principles guide his work at Culler de Pau, where ethics and respect for local products take precedence.

The restaurant’s organic garden is another cornerstone of its philosophy. With more than 300 varieties of edible plants, Culler de Pau offers a cuisine deeply connected to the land. “The plants are happy here,” Javi assures, though he also expresses concern about the effects of climate change, which disrupts natural cycles and impacts the seafood, a primary source of his cuisine.

Culler de Pau’s pantry is stocked with proximity products, mostly sourced from small producers who share the same vision of quality and sustainability. Javi acknowledges that this approach requires personal effort, but he values the exchange of knowledge and relationships built with the people who provide ingredients for his kitchen.

Beyond cooking, Javi Olleros is involved in research projects and the recovery of local species, like the estribosa fish or tear pea, and collaborates on social initiatives, such as creating recipes for people with Alzheimer’s, which will be part of a book where cooking becomes a bridge to memory.

For Javi, local cuisine is invaluable, and he laments the trend toward flavor standardization in global gastronomy. “Memory is an anchor for growth,” he says, using as an example caldeirada, an iconic dish from his village that today can only be found by special order. While the rise of new restaurants in cities like Madrid interests him, Olleros remains cautious: “We don’t want to expand meaninglessly; our diner is sacred, and that means being present, not spreading ourselves thin.”

Ferrán Adrià has described Culler de Pau’s cuisine as minimalist and direct, a description Javi appreciates. His cooking aims to highlight the pure flavors of the ingredients, adding subtle nuances that awaken the palate without overshadowing the products. While they aren’t actively pursuing a third Michelin star, Olleros admits they dream of it, always maintaining a balance between excellence and the imperfect, ever-changing nature surrounding them.

On a personal level, Javi finds his greatest critics and inspirations in his children, Antón and Zoe. At home, he cooks simply, harvesting products from the garden, and his love for humble ingredients like mussels reflects his approach to cooking: versatile, genuine, and deeply connected to the environment. Javi is also a strong advocate for the role of women, inspired by the example of his grandmother, a resilient woman who managed to support her family with dedication and sacrifice.

Finally, Javi Olleros highlights the importance of the Atlantic diet, a treasure still little recognized, which he believes could change the world if given the attention it deserves. For Olleros, the key to staying young and healthy does not lie in expensive products but in the wealth of foods Galicia’s land offers, from local vegetables to fresh seafood from the estuary.

Culler de Pau is not just a restaurant; it is a place where nature, memory, and culinary talent come together to offer a unique experience, where every bite tells a story, and every dish is a tribute to the land and sea that surround it.

To see more articles related to this topic, follow this link.