Mugler Celebrates its 50th Anniversary by Showcasing a Revitalized “Organic Futurism” at Paris Fashion Week

In celebration of the 50th anniversary of its founding by the legendary fashion icon Thierry Mugler, the house of Mugler, now under the ownership of the L’Oréal Group, unveiled its latest prêt-à-porter collection this Thursday for the Spring/Summer 2025 season. This collection, presented for both men and women, marks a significant milestone in the brand’s recent history, surprising and delighting audiences with its futuristic and organic designs that remain faithful to the brand’s distinctive DNA.

Emerging as one of the most anticipated events of the official schedule for this September edition of Paris Fashion Week, Mugler took to the runway on Thursday amidst a day that also saw presentations from Chloé, Casablanca, Rick Owens, and Schiaparelli. However, it was Mugler’s presentation that garnered special attention, not only because of the 50-year milestone since Thierry Mugler founded the brand in 1974, but also because it marked the first anniversary of the house’s return to the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. This return, which began in September 2023, was part of an ambitious relaunch initiated by L’Oréal after acquiring the brand from the Clarins Group in 2020.

At the helm of this transformation is American designer Casey Cadwallader, who has been leading the brand since 2017. In a fashion industry where it is common to see new owners appoint new executives and creative directors, Cadwallader has defied this trend. After taking over from Georgian-born, London-based designer David Koma, who held the creative reins of Mugler from 2013 to 2017, Cadwallader has brought his vision to the forefront, shaping Mugler’s identity for over seven years. His designs, characterized by bold, sexually charged aesthetics, have typically featured cut-out trends, leather as the material of choice, and corset-inspired cuts—an iconic element of Thierry Mugler’s creative legacy. These elements formed the backbone of Cadwallader’s collections, which, though visually striking, often felt too closely aligned from one season to the next. However, everything changed a year ago during Paris Fashion Week with the Spring/Summer 2024 collection.

Returning to the runway last year, Cadwallader’s vision seemed to evolve, slowly embracing a richer and more intricate design language. This was evident again during the Fall/Winter 2024/2025 collection earlier this year, where he introduced more complexity in form and material. Now, with this Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Cadwallader has fully realized his metamorphosis, delivering the most complete, thoughtful, and elevated collection of his career at Mugler.

Insect-Inspired Forms and Raindrops of Baccarat Crystal

Remaining true to the provocative and structured style that Thierry Mugler was famous for, including his love for corsets, leather, and sharply defined silhouettes, Cadwallader has managed to orchestrate a masterclass in design. His latest collection presents a futuristic and organic vision that seems to cater to an imagined civilization of space travelers. What makes this collection even more remarkable is its practicality, as the pieces are as suitable for everyday wear as they are for the most exclusive events. This balance between innovation and wearability is no small feat.

Breaking down the nuances of this collection, black remains the dominant color, anchoring the brand’s aesthetic alongside military greens, anthracite blues, and seductive nude tones. Noteworthy elements include iridescent finishes reminiscent of metallic studs, hand-painted floral velvets, and the dazzling brilliance of Baccarat crystal pearls that adorned the semi-nude body of one model, concealed only by the transparent, plastified veil of a raincoat. These details add to the collection’s overall richness, paying homage to the bold, colorful, and sensual futurism that defined Thierry Mugler’s iconic collections throughout his career.

In addition to the striking color palette and textures, Cadwallader’s masterful use of silhouette stands out in this collection. Drawing inspiration from organic shapes such as flowers, leaves, and bulbs, the designer crafted dragonfly-like and insect-inspired forms that further accentuate the futuristic, organic aesthetic that permeates the collection.

The collection features offerings for both men and women, though the women’s designs take center stage. Key pieces for men include shorts paired with blazers and cargo-style jackets with multiple pockets. For women, the show opened with daring, provocative ensembles featuring jackets and dresses with organic necklines tied with oversized pearls. These were followed by floral-printed muslin dresses, various corset-style dresses, fluid mini dresses, flowing long gowns, and dragonfly-inspired outfits. Perhaps the most standout piece was a rain dress adorned with Baccarat crystal pearls, making it one of the collection’s key creations.

As Mugler celebrates its 50th anniversary, Cadwallader, the brand’s creative director, embraces a spirit of celebration and reflection. According to the house of Mugler, this collection is an opportunity for the designer’s vision to intertwine once again with the brand’s foundational codes, as he explores new sensibilities. “The Mugler archives become fertile ground for reinterpretation,” they note, with the past not being merely replicated but purified, revitalized, and reawakened with a fresh aesthetic of freedom and lightness. This thoughtful approach ensures that Thierry Mugler’s enduring legacy continues to evolve, adapting to the future without losing the essence of its storied past.

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