Metaphore MagazineNino Redruello has emerged as one of the most prominent chefs of his generation, overseeing eight restaurants and a delivery service. He is the proud representative of the fourth generation in a distinguished family of restaurateurs in Madrid. Despite his significant success, Nino remains grounded and acknowledges the hard work and sacrifices made by his great-grandfather, grandfather, father, and uncle to uphold the legacy of Familia La Ancha. “My goal was to ensure the business didn’t go under,” he reflects, and today, the family’s culinary endeavors are thriving with remarkable success.
In the heart of La Ancha, located on Zorrilla Street in Madrid, Nino finds himself transformed into an impromptu studio during a relaxed afternoon. Here, gourmet delights such as an escalope Armando, a truffle tortilla, gratin razor clams, and a homemade cheese salad with sweet potato serve as a snack for his children. As for the famous Fismuler cheesecake, they will have to wait a little longer to indulge.
The iconic restaurant enjoys a brief moment of tranquility following a bustling service. “La Ancha is breaking records,” Nino exclaims, recalling the day’s events with pride. He meticulously monitors every detail and even removed the reservation app from his phone, admitting it became somewhat of an obsession. Although managing multiple establishments makes it challenging to be present everywhere, he occasionally feels the urge to return to the kitchen.
The peaceful atmosphere is interrupted as Nía, Diego, and Ninín, three of his four children, enter, still wearing their school uniforms. The youngest, Nicolás, has fallen asleep during the journey and snuggles in his mother’s arms, Paloma Ruiz del Real, as she encourages the older kids to lower their voices while searching for Nino. With a quick glance and a gesture honed by nearly ten years of marriage, she signals him to retrieve the chef jackets and extra clothes she brought for the kids. It seems she has her hands full! Nía is the first to examine the array of dresses, skirts, and shoes prepared for a photoshoot, unable to resist trying on a pair of towering sandals that still have a bit of growing room.
Nino Redruello is now the public face of Familia La Ancha, which boasts a rich legacy spanning four generations and 103 years dedicated to the art of good food. He proudly states that he identifies as both a family man and a chef, “in that order.” For Nino, success is not measured by the number of restaurants or employees, nor by revenue figures. Instead, he believes true success lies in achieving a harmonious balance between a fulfilling personal and emotional life and a profession that brings satisfaction. “If I have to choose, I will always prioritize family, and that shows in everything I do,” he confesses.
While the children are well aware of the family’s rich culinary heritage, they remain largely oblivious to the media spotlight surrounding their family. “I don’t share much with them; I don’t show them interviews or articles. When we launched Escalope Armando, a brand used my photo on bus shelters in Madrid, and I agreed with Paloma to keep the kids from seeing it. I didn’t want them to develop a distorted perception of who we are: restaurateurs serving others. I want them to retain that humility and simplicity,” he explains, before diverting his attention to the garden’s vertical plants with the older children.
The youngest, Ninín, eagerly dons a chef jacket and excitedly declares, “Look, I’m a chef like Dad!” He rushes into the kitchen, eager to lend a hand. Nía, on the other hand, prefers to be a singer and grabs some whiskers to perform a Camila Cabello song. Diego, ever the resourceful one, snatches his father’s phone and discreetly finds a corner to play. Meanwhile, Nicolás, having just woken up, has commandeered a loaf of bread, nibbling it with his mother’s guidance.
Nino places great importance on the values he inherited from his family and aims to pass them down to his children. “I appreciate it when they ask me not to go to work. I explain that it is my duty. This way, they learn daily that sacrifice is necessary; I cannot just stay home watching TV. I learned that from my parents, and I believe setting examples for children is a gift that helps them avoid future dramas, as life can be complicated.”
Nino does not shy away from fulfilling family responsibilities either, stating, “In this profession, it is challenging.” He does not usually cook at home except for making Sunday rice, but he strives to drop the kids off at school on many days, ensuring he is present for dinner. “When they go to bed, I lay down beside them and we share stories; they tell me about their day, and I share mine,” he says with warmth.
Reflecting on his childhood, he shares, “I truly began to know my father at the age of eight when Tierno Galván, the mayor of Madrid from 1979 to 1986, passed away. We had a reserved table every Sunday, and my father could not close the restaurant. I would only see him at home for dinner on Tuesdays. For years, that was the only time we had together. I never held that against him, as those were financially challenging times, and he worked tirelessly to provide for us, knowing my mother was managing everything else.”
A Legacy Built on Sacrifice and Humility
Despite the growing media attention, with weekly interviews, featured articles, his own television program, and a recently published book titled Las recetas de la Ancha that showcases family recipes pivotal to his career, Redruello remains committed to the principles that have established Familia La Ancha as a beacon of exceptional dining. The fact that the family has endured for four generations speaks volumes.
Nino asserts unequivocally, “If it weren’t for the dedication and perseverance of my father, my uncle, and my brother Santi, I would probably be the head chef at some casual eatery, and that would be it. I wouldn’t have been able to open anything. Las Tortillas de Gabino was born out of Santi’s courage.” Acknowledging the efforts of his predecessors is a recurring theme in Nino’s discourse. He expresses gratitude for the recent accolades received, such as the National Hospitality Award for Outstanding Innovation (2021) and the Gourmet Award for Career Achievement 2022, conferred by Fuera de Serie, stating, “These honors recognize our family’s unwavering commitment, which is often more challenging than the whirlwind of openings we experience, complete with all the adrenaline that entails. Their contributions carry more weight than ours, yet they never received this level of recognition.”
One hundred three years is a significant milestone, especially in a city like Madrid, where the restaurant industry is experiencing a true boom. In an environment where establishments often appear and disappear without a trace, Familia La Ancha has established itself as a pillar of culinary excellence and stability. Nino could easily fill another book with family anecdotes, from tales of his great-grandfather, who spent twenty years sleeping on a stool by the window of La Estrecha, founded in 1919, to cater to the bakery workers who passed by at all hours, to stories of his father, who made daily trips to Mercamadrid for 34 years to procure the finest ingredients. These narratives vividly illustrate the dedicated and often arduous life that characterizes the restaurant business for this family.
The Making of a Chef
“So, leading this establishment today must feel like a heavy burden, right?” I inquire. “At fifteen, I started spending my summers working in the kitchen for three months because I was convinced I was the one who would undermine the hard work and dedication of my father, my uncle, my grandfather, and my great-grandfather. I struggled with deep-seated insecurities. Every day, I pushed myself to feel worthy of the responsibilities I was about to assume. I was the only one aspiring to be a chef; my brother Santi leaned towards Business Studies, and Ignacio pursued Architecture. I wanted to absorb values. This mindset has led me to maintain modest aspirations; my only dream was to preserve La Ancha and ensure it wouldn’t fail. Now we feel liberated to grow at our own pace,” he shares.
The last generational transition took place in 2005, when Nino and his brother Santi assumed control and embarked on their journey. In the nearly two decades since, their family has expanded significantly, launching ventures such as Las Tortillas de Gabino (2005), La Gabinoteca (2009-2020), Fismuler (Madrid, 2016, and Barcelona, 2018), Armando (the delivery service, 2020), La Taberna de La Ancha (2021), and Molino de Pez (2022). Additionally, they are set to unveil The Omar, a piano bar-cocktail lounge, and Hijos de Tomás, with TAMA slated to open its doors in spring 2023. Nino also serves as a culinary consultant for Carne, Mauro Colagreco’s venture in Madrid, just as he did for the acclaimed Tatel.
Nino fondly recalls the unwavering support of his uncle Benigno when he stepped forward to take on more responsibility: “Before going to El Bulli, I worked seasonally in Italy, London, Barcelona, and Donosti with Hilario Arbelaitz and Juan Mari Arzak… Upon returning, I would go with my uncles to La Ancha, where I spent hours receiving instruction and guidance.”
Nevertheless, Nino’s ambition does not stem solely from his culinary background; he recognizes the significance of external influences. “I was fortunate to grow up in a family where culture was paramount, often nurtured by visits to the theater or exhibitions. As a teenager, I frequently joined my parents for outings to Las Ventas, where I found inspiration. Each visit opened new doors. I was aware that, with their level of commitment, I needed to prioritize good food. They inspired me, but the flames were ignited by my initial experiences, including my time at El Bulli and with chefs like Boulud and Gagnaire. Their unwavering commitment has propelled my aspirations and served as a source of motivation,” he adds, acknowledging the importance of humility and sacrifice.
As a father, Nino seeks to instill these values in his children while nurturing their individuality. “With the kids, I do not impose my culinary preferences on them. They will discover what they enjoy when the time is right. They don’t necessarily need to follow in my footsteps; I want them to explore their paths, be themselves, and not feel constrained by familial expectations,” he emphasizes.
Redruello is cautious about his kids following in his footsteps, expressing, “I would never encourage them to enter this profession. I want them to discover their passions.” Still, he remains optimistic that the culinary heritage will continue, stating, “If any of them expresses a desire to pursue this path, I will wholeheartedly support them.”
In the rapidly evolving gastronomic landscape, Nino Redruello stands as a beacon of tradition and innovation. His journey, marked by dedication to his family’s legacy, humility, and a commitment to personal values, exemplifies the art of culinary craftsmanship that transcends generations.
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Carlos Mundy
Metaphore Magazine
Lucrecia Aldao
Charles Markeaton-Mundy
