Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner: A History of Elegance and Exclusivity

Exploring the finest Rolex Submariners through the lens of renowned historian Nicholas Foulkes.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner is not merely a watch; it is a cultural icon, a status symbol, and a legend in Swiss watchmaking. A new and captivating book by esteemed historian and journalist Nicholas Foulkes, Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch That Unlocked The Deep, dives into the depths of this iconic model’s history, offering readers an unprecedented look at what may be Rolex’s most famous and revered watch. Thanks to privileged access to Rolex’s archives in Geneva, Foulkes has reconstructed the Submariner’s history with a wealth of previously unseen details, giving readers a rare glimpse into a brand traditionally wrapped in mystery and discretion.

The Elegance of the Rolex Submariner Through History

Unveiled to the world in 1953, the Rolex Submariner revolutionized dive watch design. With its rotating bezel and water resistance up to 100 meters, this watch quickly became the flagship model for divers and a symbol of prestige. How did a watch crafted for underwater adventurers evolve into a coveted piece for fashion and luxury enthusiasts? The answer lies in its evolution, which has been both consistent and remarkable. From Jacques Cousteau’s wrist to Sean Connery’s in his portrayal of James Bond, the Submariner has conquered both the oceans and the silver screen, solidifying its place in popular culture.

Foulkes explores each of these iconic moments in his book, itself a work of art. “Even if you can’t read, this book is worth owning for the visuals alone,” the author remarks, emphasizing the quality of the photography and luxurious presentation. Over 255 pages, readers can explore the essence of a watch that, for many, is synonymous with Rolex itself.

Exclusivity Behind the Rolex Name

Rolex has historically been a brand shrouded in secrecy. Foulkes reveals that the company has been exceedingly cautious about the information it releases to the public. This mystique has greatly contributed to the allure and appeal of the Rolex Submariner—a watch that is not only a marvel of engineering but also a symbol of exclusivity. Through this book, Foulkes manages to break down some of these walls, offering watch enthusiasts a thorough and documented look at the Submariner’s history, including previously unknown details about the most legendary models in the collection.

The Most Iconic Rolex Submariner Models

Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680/8 (1969)

The first Submariner in yellow gold marked a milestone in the model’s history, signaling its transition from diving equipment to a luxury accessory. In the 1970s, the Submariner Ref. 1680/8 added a touch of glamour to the collection. According to Foulkes, this model represents the moment when the Submariner began to be both a status symbol on land and a reliable tool underwater. Its unique design and gold construction made it as suitable for a high-profile gala as it was for a submarine expedition.

Rolex Submariner Deepsea Challenge (2012)

Adventure and challenge are part of the essence of the Rolex Submariner, and the Deepsea Challenge epitomizes this spirit. In 2012, Rolex accompanied filmmaker James Cameron on his dive into the Mariana Trench, the ocean’s deepest point, equipping his submersible with a specially designed Submariner to withstand extreme pressure. This watch is a testament to Rolex’s innovative power, capable of withstanding depths of 35,787 feet. While not practical for daily wear due to its size, the Deepsea Challenge embodies Rolex’s ability to adapt to the most extreme conditions.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 116659SABR (2018)

This model, adorned with precious gems, demonstrates Rolex’s ability to reinterpret the Submariner’s design in ways that capture luxury at its peak. With a limited production of 771 pieces, Ref. 116659SABR is one of the most exclusive and luxurious Submariners. The craftsmanship required to set the gems is a tribute to Rolex’s mastery, making this Submariner as much a jewel as it is a watch.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 6204 (1953)

This model is the seed from which the entire Submariner line sprouted. Introduced in 1953, Ref. 6204 features a rotating bezel that defined the aesthetic of future Rolex models. Although initially intended as a diving tool, it soon became a coveted piece outside the underwater world, attracting collectors and celebrities alike. The creation of the Submariner Ref. 6204 was a pivotal moment for Rolex, and its classic design has remained virtually untouched over the years.

Rolex Submariner Deepsea Ref. 136668LB (2024)

One of the brand’s most recent releases, the Submariner Deepsea in 18-karat gold, challenges all conventions of a diving watch. In an unusually luxurious material for such a piece, this watch demonstrates that, when it comes to innovation and exclusivity, Rolex is not limited by practicality. It defies expectations and broadens the boundaries of what a Submariner can be, blending the brand’s history and prestige with a modern and opulent twist.

The Rolex Collection: A Never-Ending Story

Foulkes’ book is not only a tribute to a watch but also an homage to watchmaking history and Rolex’s values. With his elegant narrative style, the author captures the essence of a brand that has redefined luxury on the wrist. As we turn each page, we delve into the fascinating world of Rolex—a world where Swiss precision combines with an aesthetic that has won over generations.

For those interested in the world of haute horology, this book is not just an information source; it’s a work of art in its own right. Rolex has entrusted Foulkes with the mission of telling its story through each of its iconic models, an innovative approach that not only celebrates the Submariner’s history but also allows us to understand the cultural importance of this mechanical jewel.

The Rolex Submariner remains, today more than ever, a symbol of elegance and power. Each model tells a story and represents a piece of Rolex’s history—a story that Foulkes has masterfully captured, inviting us to explore the fascinating world of a watch that continues to challenge the boundaries of time.

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