Saint Laurent Reinvents Le Smoking: Corporate Elegance and the Return of Bella Hadid

In addition to marking Bella Hadid’s return to the runway, Anthony Vaccarello reimagines the maison’s classic Le Smoking with a corporate twist.

A teaser directed by French filmmaker Gaspar Noé revealed two silhouettes moving between light and shadow. Two feminine profiles, yet dressed in traditional masculine codes. With this, Vaccarello teased the key elements of his new collection for Saint Laurent: suits, but not as we know them.

Le Smoking, first introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in the late 1960s, broke not just fashion rules, but social norms. It redefined womenswear with the creation of the tuxedo for women. Though pantsuits for women had existed before, they were mostly reserved for the elite in Hollywood or artistic circles. Saint Laurent brought this power dressing to the streets, epitomized by Helmut Newton’s iconic photograph of a woman standing alone, smoking in a dark alley, rain-soaked pavement beneath her. It was nothing short of revolutionary.

Vaccarello’s new take on Le Smoking also features gleaming floors, but without the cigarettes – and not just because of contemporary sensibilities. The models walk with hands in their pockets, reflecting a shift from evening glamour to corporate chic. Think pinstripe shirts, eyeglasses, and ties, all echoing the aesthetics of ‘corpcore.’ Yet, this look takes on a sapphic tone, moving away from male gaze-driven eroticism and instead evoking icons like Fran Lebowitz, Gillian Anderson, Jodie Foster, and Susan Sontag — legendary figures in the lesbian community, with influences drawn from Yves himself.

Accessories are minimal, save for glasses and belts that serve a purpose — to cinch oversized trousers — or the occasional gold bracelet peeking from beneath oversized shirt cuffs. Layers play a significant role in this collection, with leather jackets, trench coats, and bombers worn over suits, embodying the active woman on the go. The suits themselves are mostly oversized, marking a departure from the slim silhouettes Vaccarello had previously made a hallmark of the house. Volume is increased, along with a bold new direction for the brand. While the collection maintains continuity, it also feels evolutionary — daring, stimulating, and politically charged.

There are also nods to Saint Laurent’s muse, Loulou de la Falaise, through more vacation-ready pieces. Sheer lace blouses, tiered skirts, and long silk tops with plunging necklines are paired with leather jackets or jacquard blazers. This section of the collection allows for extreme accessories, including oversized earrings and stilettos. Yet, even here, the nonchalant attitude remains: hands in pockets, casually holding a garment. It’s all about attitude.

As a final note, the event was highlighted by Bella Hadid’s triumphant return to the runway. Since her viral moment in 2022 with Coperni, where her dress was sprayed directly onto her body using innovative textile technology, she hadn’t graced a catwalk. Rumors swirled about her comeback after she was spotted in Paris in recent days, and today she made her mark once again. Her presence underscored the theme of identity, freedom, and resistance that Saint Laurent is championing in this collection.

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