Sixties Futurism with a Dystopian Twist: Prada’s Spring-Summer 2025 Show

Mirrored skirts, grommeted visors, and leggings-pants are just some of the bold pieces Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons propose for the upcoming season.

Runways have always showcased different interpretations of futuristic fashion: from the pessimism of a dystopian future to a vibrant, optimistic tomorrow filled with bright colors and space-ready materials. Prada, as always, finds itself in a middle ground. For spring-summer 2025, the Italian house draws on a ‘60s aesthetic, but with a dark, challenging twist, far removed from the joyful spirit that once defined that era. Simons and Prada have imagined a somewhat inhospitable universe, reflected in everything from the music to the models’ fast-paced, disheveled walks.

At the Prada Foundation, some of the most innovative looks for the season were on display. Knee-length, straight-cut dresses ranged from utilitarian knits to leather pieces with piercings, adding a ‘bondage’ touch that pairs unexpectedly with square-toed shoes. It’s this play on contrasts that Prada executes so masterfully. For instance, a straight, slightly A-line skirt contrasts with a utilitarian jacket featuring contrasting lapels, a nod to their spring collection from last year.

The collection’s “space age” touches shine through in the skirts, made from vinyl in shades of silver and black, and adorned with grommets reminiscent of designs from Pierre Cardin or André Courrèges. Yet the way they’re styled—with knit sweaters, coats of varying lengths, and sharp, masculine shoes—adds a bourgeois twist that breaks away from the ‘60s reference.

Prada also introduces perforated visors that are sure to become the focal point of the season’s styling. These can be paired with archival coats or festive dresses (featuring feathers or metallic studs), complemented by sporty raincoats.

Conceptually, the collection reflects on today’s hyper-information era and the impact of algorithms on how we perceive reality. “We are now flooded with information, guided by algorithms that offer everyone their own version of the present, a curated reality. This isn’t about critique, but about engaging with this idea, starting a conversation about our cultural context,” said Miuccia Prada.

The house’s new staples for spring include ribbed leggings transformed into pants, with belt loops and an ironic belt to cinch the waist. The color palette ranges from neutral tones like gray to more vibrant shades like pastel pink or purple, paired with complementary hues like butter yellow. Tailoring gets a fresh take with pencil skirts and office-ready A-line designs that feature more ‘bondage’ elements, such as belts and rings that drop the skirt’s waistband to hip level. Visible underwear, one of the key trends for spring-summer 2025, also makes an appearance at Prada, in pieces that range from knit to leather.

Prada returns to more ethereal fabrics with dresses and skirts featuring wavy hems held in place by thin wires, a detail echoed in the scarf that served as an invitation to the show. These designs may feature sheer or satin details, always paired with wardrobe staples like sweatshirts and fitted knit sweaters.

Lastly, Prada embraces cowboy aesthetics with Western boots in shades like white or orange, paired with tailored trousers tucked into the footwear. The most surprising accessory? An XXL pearl necklace reminiscent of the 2000s fashion revival.

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