The signature Louis Vuitton checks now shape its high jewelry collection

In an exclusive interview with Vogue, Francesca Amfitheatrof, the artistic director of watches and jewelry at Louis Vuitton, unveils a new collection of fine jewelry inspired by the iconic Damier pattern.

What happens when you take Louis Vuitton’s classic Damier design – the checkered pattern created by the brand’s founder in 1888 – and apply it to a high jewelry line? The result is Le Damier by Louis Vuitton, the new collection presented by Francesca Amfitheatrof, the creative mastermind behind the brand’s watch and jewelry division. This collection features 12 pieces, including rings, necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, reinterpreting the iconic geometric motif in precious metals and stones. “It transcends generations and genders,” says an enthusiastic Amfitheatrof. “Le Damier by Louis Vuitton embodies everything modern jewelry should be.”

A pivotal cultural moment in jewelry history served as the starting point for the designer. In 1978, when tennis player Chris Evert’s diamond bracelet flew off her wrist during the US Open, the match paused until the jewelry was found. Thus, the “tennis bracelet” was born. Amfitheatrof, celebrated for her groundbreaking approach to high jewelry, decided to push the boundaries of this classic piece: “I wanted to reimagine the fluidity of the traditional tennis bracelet and create modern, continuous pieces that move effortlessly with the skin.”

This vision gave birth to the Le Damier tennis bracelet, a pure lesson in everyday luxury, featuring two rows of diamonds set in either yellow or white gold. The exquisite craftsmanship is no surprise, but the true wow factor lies in its fluidity—an almost liquid-like flexibility not typically associated with metal. The bracelet is designed to mold perfectly to the wrist, feeling like a second skin. It’s a tennis bracelet, yes, but one that is truly unique: “We’ve taken this delicate classic and transformed it into a modern, always-moving piece that sits on your wrist, genderless, ageless, with a touch of avant-garde. These are pieces you’ll never want to take off, even when you’re naked,” Amfitheatrof explains.

This 24/7 spirit – reflected in both the design’s continuity and its wearability – runs throughout the Le Damier collection. The rings, luxurious pieces aspiring to become the new Eternity bands, come in two distinct models: one with two rows of diamonds, and another, more geometric, featuring four. The round pendant, also adorned with diamonds, hangs from a delicate yellow gold chain, while the earrings, seemingly simple yellow gold hoops at first glance, are embedded with alternating diamonds arranged in the signature Louis Vuitton checkerboard pattern. “Although it’s a diamond collection, the stones aren’t the main focus,” the designer clarifies. “What matters is the pattern they create. If Louis Vuitton were alive, I think he’d be proud to see his 1888 creation turned into gold and diamond jewelry. The fluidity of the house’s Damier pattern now lives on the skin. It’s a timeless modern classic.”

However, while Amfitheatrof clearly envisions Le Damier as a family heirloom – the impeccable craftsmanship alone makes these pieces worthy of being passed down through generations – the way they are worn doesn’t require such careful attention: “These pieces are sensual yet casual. And they’re for everyone.” So how does she suggest wearing them? The designer is all about layering: “Long live layering! I love bracelets. They’re so thin and sensual, they feel great on the skin, so they’re perfect for stacking and mixing different colors and sizes of gold.” This contemporary, inclusive vision brings a breath of fresh air to the often tradition-bound world of high jewelry. For Amfitheatrof, the key is looking to the past to move forward: “Le Damier by Louis Vuitton is a creation for a new era. It’s a modern collection, yes, but one designed to endure forever.”

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