Vegan leather has emerged as an unexpected luxury item today, yet not all alternatives are created equal, nor is their production free from debate.

It has been exactly 110 years since the first prototype of vegan leather, or artificial leather, revolutionized the fashion market. Although its use has permeated the industry consistently throughout the century, its association with luxury garments and accessories was rare—until now. In an industry where authenticity often faces off against imitation, the debate surrounding animal leather and its synthetic counterparts has become more complex—and, dare we say, more intriguing.

We live in an era where a DHL t-shirt can fetch €400, and balaclavas are adorned with rhinestones, yet no one can deny that synthetic leather embodies one of the most surprising luxury items of 2024. This new perception owes much to a societal metamorphosis, as well as to the material’s evolution, which has propelled it from the clearance rack to coveted status.

Sandra Sandor, from the Hungarian brand Nanushka, shares insights into this shift: “I believe the paradigm shift is linked to constantly evolving technologies. A few years ago, we didn’t have options, but today we have new techniques that allow us to produce various types of faux and vegan leathers that are truly competitive.” Nanushka, established in 2006, only started using vegan leather in 2016 due to a lack of suitable materials. “Sure, leather alternatives existed, but they contained PVC, and the quality was vastly different from what we have now.”

A significant influence in the development of synthetic leather has been Stella McCartney, who pioneered the movement with her firm established in 2001. Her strong animal rights advocacy has not only made vegan leather a viable alternative but also a material worthy of being labeled exclusive and sustainable.

Many companies are now exploring plant-based leathers made from mushrooms or pineapples. “Our animal-free leathers have an environmental impact up to 24 times lower than their animal-derived counterparts,” say representatives from the British brand, highlighting the variance in quality among vegan leathers. Their Alter-Nappa, made from recycled polyester, reduces the amount of petroleum used, and features a coating made with over 50% vegetable oil—renewable and sourced from non-food materials.

For brands like Nanushka, the choice of vegan leather is crucial in determining the quality difference between a €40 bag and a €400 one. “There are various types of vegan and synthetic leather, each with different textures. Currently, we use a polyurethane-based material ideal for textile designs, but for accessories, we would need something else. Many companies are working on plant-based leathers, but we still need a few years for complete development,” Sandor explains. In their quest for sustainable options, these brands have found not only an ethical argument against animal leather but also a lucrative market niche appealing to increasingly conscientious consumers.

The term “faux leather” implies a lower-quality imitation of real leather, while “vegan leather” suggests an ethical or moral dilemma alternative. Xavier Grau, a naming expert at Nom-nam, notes the significance of terminology in shaping consumer perception. “The name used for a product or service directly influences the values it projects,” he explains. “Faux leather suggests an inferior version, while vegan leather indicates an ethical alternative aligned with the rise of veganism and vegetarianism as global trends.”

However, branding expert Andy Stalman warns that consumers demand transparency between claims and practices: “This semantic association is clear, but consumers increasingly expect a commitment to what is said and what is done. It’s vital that this doesn’t remain mere marketing strategy.”

Ultimately, while we find ourselves in the era of “fur-free”—with brands like Versace, Gucci, Chanel, and Burberry embracing the movement—”leather-free” is becoming a reality that is not far off. Although it introduces a complex debate regarding plastic use, the controversy is as tangible as Ubrique leather itself. “Both vegan and animal leather have their pros and cons,” Sandor reflects. “I don’t think we’ll reach a point of being completely free from real leather, but we will change the techniques associated with its processing, like tanning and dyeing. There’s a long road ahead, but with new techniques, we can use leather more sustainably, whatever the type.”

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