What to Know About Burberry’s Spring-Summer 2025 Show

Daniel Lee chose the National Theatre in London to present Burberry’s spring-summer 2025 collection, featuring both menswear and womenswear. As in previous seasons, the British designer drew inspiration from the brand’s English heritage, celebrating Britishness in its broadest sense while incorporating unexpected touches of softness. He also collaborated with artist Gary Hume, who was invited to create the set for the show.

Highlights of Daniel Lee’s Spring-Summer 2025 Show for Burberry

Staying true to Burberry’s British roots, the house, under Daniel Lee’s direction, enlisted renowned artist Gary Hume, originally from Kent and a prominent member of the Young British Artists group, to design the show’s set. Hume took inspiration from his installation Bays, made from waterproof sheets cut into geometric shapes, first exhibited in the 1990s. “When Daniel reached out to me for this collaboration, I was surprised he knew about Bays, as it’s a piece I made a long time ago and hasn’t been widely seen,” said Hume, whose recent work is currently on display in London (Gary Hume: Mirrors and Other Creatures, until October 19 at the Sprüth Magers Gallery).

For Daniel Lee, the season’s key themes were comfort, softness, and voluptuousness. The English designer once again focused on outerwear, such as Burberry’s iconic trench coats and parkas, playfully reimagining them with a more relaxed feel. The collection featured a vibrant color palette and innovative textures, breathing new life into the brand’s traditional pieces.

Trench coats crafted from silk poplin were a standout, with the classic Burberry trench receiving whimsical updates, such as faux feather appliqués made from silk organza. Jackets, dresses, and tops were also infused with elements of outerwear. For instance, a coat transformed into a fluid, vibrant orange dress, while another shortened to feature a large bow at the collar. Silk poplin pants and linen coats offered a sense of lightness, while the color palette mixed earthy tones like khaki, beige, and brown with fresh lilacs and oranges.

The concepts of protection and functionality remained ever-present. Many of the rainwear pieces were waterproofed and equipped with numerous pockets. The cargo pants, one of the collection’s most memorable items, came in a subtle khaki version with Y2K-inspired references for women or the iconic Burberry check for men. Daniel Lee’s masterstroke? Some truly unexpected combinations: a parka paired with a shimmering, sequin-adorned evening gown with flowing fringes, or simple polos matched with long pleated skirts.

Born in Bradford, in the north of England, Daniel Lee once again demonstrated his love for his country through a collection filled with distinctly British aesthetic details. “I wanted to convey an easy-to-wear elegance. There’s an inherently British creativity, and the silhouettes are infused with a sense of familiarity,” said the designer.

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