The incredible Cairo during the reign of King Farouk: a glimpse into a golden age of Egypt

“Propaganda today is a powerful weapon, and in thirty days of ceaselessly flooding every newspaper, radio programme, and public speech with hatred against one man, almost anybody could be persuaded to believe him a villain.”  King Farouk of Egypt

Cairo street in 1941

In my novel The Toucan Lodge, inspired by my father Rodney Mundy’s memoirs as a spy for British Intelligence, there is a chapter detailing his trip to Cairo at the end of 1941, where he met King Farouk, who was two years his senior. In the chapter titled “Flickering Cairo”, I recount the city’s wonders during the reign of the King—a cosmopolitan metropolis adorned with extraordinary buildings, lush parks, and a vibrant social scene. In those years, Cairo was the centre of the world, often referred to as the “Paris of the East”—a city of tolerance where the three major religions coexisted in harmony.

Cairo, the beating heart of Egypt, has long held an air of mystique and grandeur, with its sprawling bazaars, historic mosques, and the eternal Nile weaving through its fabric.

Pedestrians Cairo 1941
Shepheard’s Hotel, the most iconic hotel in King Farouk’s reign

During the reign of King Farouk I (1936-1952), Cairo entered a unique chapter in its history—one marked by glamour, cultural fusion, political intrigue, and profound change. Farouk’s reign, often viewed as the twilight of Egypt’s monarchy, coincided with a transformative period in the city’s rich past. His rule not only brought about a significant shift in the city’s cultural landscape, with the convergence of tradition, modernity, Eastern opulence, and Western influence, but also had a profound impact on its political dynamics.

Farouk ascended to the throne at the tender age of sixteen, heralding a new era for Cairo. While Egypt was technically a constitutional monarchy, British influence was pervasive. Yet within the confines of the city’s streets, palaces, and nightclubs, Farouk lived lavishly, epitomising the luxury and decadence for which his reign is frequently remembered. The young King, educated in Europe and enamoured with Western culture, became a symbol of Cairo’s international identity. His reign was a period of grandeur, cultural cross-pollination, and a monarch whose life was as much a symbol of Cairo’s past as it was of its future.

King Farouk in the 1940s with Winston Churchill (Photo courtesy of Magda Malek egyptianroyalty.net)
Kedival Cairo, known as the Paris of the East

Cairo, at that time, possessed a dual character. On the one hand, it was deeply entrenched in its Islamic heritage, with towering minarets and the ancient streets of Khan el-Khalili echoing with the sounds of bustling trade. On the other, it was a city increasingly oriented towards the West. The extravagant soirées at Abdeen Palace, where King Farouk resided, were legendary, attracting aristocrats, diplomats, and European elites who frequented Egypt during the interwar years. The KingKing revelled in the high life—gambling, fine dining, and fast cars became synonymous with his reign. In many respects, Cairo mirrored his lavish lifestyle.

During this period, Cairo not only emerged as a political centre but also as a vibrant cultural hub. The city became a magnet for intellectuals, artists, and revolutionaries alike. Egyptian cinema, often referred to as the ‘Hollywood of the East,’ reached unprecedented heights under Farouk. Stars like Omar Sharif and Faten Hamama became household names as Egyptian films gained popularity across the Arab world. The film industry flourished, reflecting both Egypt’s rich culture and the Western influences that Farouk embraced.

King Farouk greeting his subjects

Moreover, Cairo was home to a burgeoning literary scene. Egyptian writers such as Naguib Mahfouz began to explore themes of modernity, tradition, and the struggles of the Egyptian people within an ever-changing political landscape. Cafés along the Nile were frequented by poets and thinkers, their conversations steeped in the tensions between colonialism, nationalism, and the quest for a more independent Egypt.

Its cosmopolitan nature complemented the city’s intellectual vibrancy. Cairo’s streets teemed with Egyptians, but also Greeks, Armenians, Jews, and Europeans, reflecting the melting pot that the city had become. The Mediterranean influence was palpable, especially in Cairo’s cafés, restaurants, and fashion. In many ways, the city existed in two worlds: one steeped in its ancient past and another embracing the modernity of the early 20th century.

Entrance to The Shepheard’s hotel

While Cairo under Farouk was undoubtedly a city of splendour, it was also one marked by political unrest. Beneath the surface, a strong undercurrent of nationalism was brewing. Many Egyptians began to view the British presence with increasing hostility. Farouk’s extravagant lifestyle, once admired, became a source of contention. As World War II unfolded, Cairo emerged as a centre of intrigue, with British, German, and Italian spies prowling the city, even as its nightlife thrived amid global conflict.

Though initially popular, King Farouk became embroiled in controversy. His perceived ineffectiveness and lavish excesses alienated him from a growing number of Egyptians who yearned for change. The influence of the Muslim Brotherhood, founded in 1928, began to swell, reflecting the rising tide of Islamic and nationalist sentiment in the country. Cairo became the stage for Egypt’s political evolution in many respects, with Farouk at its centre—a monarch increasingly out of step with the forces of history.

As the 1940s drew to a close, so too did King Farouk’s reign. By the early 1950s, Cairo was a city simmering with unrest. The Free Officers Movement, led by Gamal Abdel Nasser, sought to rid Egypt of both its monarchy and the remnants of British control.

The king with his bride, Queen Farida on their marriage day 1938

The Cairo Fire, also known as Black Saturday, was a series of riots that erupted on January 26, 1952, resulting in the burning and looting of approximately 750 buildings, including the country’s Opera House and the renowned Shepheard’s Hotel. The killing of 50 Egyptian auxiliary policemen by British troops the previous day triggered spontaneous anti-British protests, which were quickly seized upon by organised elements in the crowd. This led to the destruction of large sectors of Cairo while security forces were inexplicably absent. A few months later, the Egyptian Revolution erupted, forcing King Farouk to abdicate and ending over a century of rule by the Muhammad Ali dynasty. He sailed into exile, and Egypt was declared a republic.

However, the Cairo of Farouk’s time left an indelible mark on the city’s identity. It was a period of grandeur, cultural cross-pollination, and a monarch whose life was as much a symbol of Cairo’s past as it was of its future. Farouk’s reign may have concluded in political failure. Still, his cosmopolitan, luxurious, and complex Cairo remains an evocative chapter in the city’s storied history.

King Farouk celebrating his 22nd birthday

While King Farouk is often associated with his lavish lifestyle and the decline of his reign, a remarkable fusion of traditional and contemporary cultural and political influences defined his period in Cairo. The legacy of that period continues to resonate in Cairo’s streets, architecture, and the memories of its people. From the iconic hotels like the Shepheard’s to the grand casinos along the Nile, and from the bustling souks to the enduring beauty of Islamic Cairo, the city remains a place where history speaks—and where the echoes of Farouk’s Cairo linger, albeit faintly, through its alleys and palaces.

In many ways, the extraordinary Cairo of Farouk’s reign was a microcosm of Egypt’s broader struggles—a nation caught between its ancient heritage and the demands of the modern world, a land of immense potential and contradictions, whose story continues to captivate and inspire.

The Royal Palace of Abdeen in the 40s
The Exbehieh Gardens in cairo

Today, there exists a sentimental yearning for the monarchy. This sentiment arises as a reaction to current popular grievances, particularly Egyptian society’s lack of stability, security, freedom, and economic opportunities. Some Egyptians feel that the republican experiment has failed, believing that a return to monarchy could resolve the nation’s present dilemmas. This conclusion may be partly informed by the observation that throughout the region, Arab monarchies have proven to be the most resilient in the face of the upheavals of the Arab Spring. Prince Osman, a royal family member, has expressed his conviction that the monarchy could restore much-needed stability to Egypt and unite the nation.

The Toucan Lodge is available at amazon.com

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